The practice of towing a vehicle four wheels-down behind a motorhome is still the most convenient way for owners to get around once they’ve reached their destination. Rather than breaking camp every time you need to leave the RV park or campsite, simply jump in your car and drive off, just like you would at your home.
In the early years, only a handful of manufacturers recognized the practice, and most could only verify a few models as being towable.With each passing year, however, more manufacturers are recognizing the benefits of dinghy towing, and are becoming more active in approving their vehicles. As a result, there are more choices now than ever, and also a lot more variety — from fuel sipping compact cars and hybrids to full-size pickups and SUVs. Keep in mind that we’ve made every effort to check, and double check with each manufacturer to make sure that the listings are correct and current.
However, much of the information we receive is preliminary when the guide is compiled, and can change by the time this issue goes to press. Therefore, we cannot stress enough that you check with the dealer to be certain that the vehicle you are considering is dinghy towable. Ask to see a copy of the owner’s manual; somewhere in the index, there should be a notation for “recreational,” “four-down,” or “flat” towing.
If the owner’s manual states that the vehicle is not towable, consider something else, or be prepared to modify the vehicle and probably void any stated warranties.
In my attempt to find out for once and for all how to tow my Jeep, I sent out an email to several forums. All came back and said that all I have to do is to hook up the Jeep, put the transfer case in N and the tranny in PARK and I was ready to go. I don't have a steering wheel lock. Since the Owners manual went into a long laundry list of things to do I sent Jeep an email asking for clarification. Had they stopped after the second paragraph I would've been happy. However, they continued on regurgitating the owners manual and continuing to confuse the issue.
Other than what I mentioned in the first parapgraph above, is there ANYTHING that I HAVE to do to the Jeep prior to towing? Here is what they sent me: Thank you for contacting the Jeep Customer Assistance Center regarding your 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. This vehicle should not be equipped with a steering wheel lock; therefore, there should be no need to leave the ignition key in the unlocked/off position and disconnect the negative battery cable. Customer can verify this vehicle is not equipped with a steering wheel lock by performing the following test: Vehicle started - turn the steering wheel to the full lock, hold it against the stop, then turn off the vehicle and validate the steering wheel is not locked while turning all the way back to center straight forward position. The customer should refer to the User Guide for recreational towing information. The User Guide can be viewed online at: The following information was obtained from the User Guide (pages 80-82): 'Recreational Towing? Four-Wheel Drive Models NOTE: The transfer case must be shifted into NEUTRAL (N), automatic transmission must be shifted into PARK, and manual transmission must be placed in gear (NOT in NEUTRAL) for recreational towing.
Shifting Into NEUTRAL (N) Use the following procedure to prepare your vehicle for recreational towing. 1.Bring the vehicle to a complete stop. 2.Turn OFF the engine. 3.Press and hold the brake pedal. 4.Shift the automatic transmission into NEUTRAL or depress the clutch pedal on a manual transmission.
5.Shift the transfer case lever into NEUTRAL (N). 6.Start the engine. 7.Shift the transmission into REVERSE. 8.Release the brake pedal (and clutch pedal on manual transmissions) for five seconds and ensure that there is no vehicle movement.
9.Repeat steps 7 and 8 with automatic transmission in DRIVE or manual transmission in first gear. 10.Turn OFF the engine. 11.Firmly apply the parking brake.
12.Shift the transmission into PARK or place manual transmission in gear (NOT in Neutral). 13.Attach the vehicle to the tow vehicle using a suitable tow bar. 14.Release the parking brake. Shifting Out of NEUTRAL (N) Use the following procedure to prepare your vehicle for normal usage.
1.Bring the vehicle to a complete stop, leaving it connected to the tow vehicle. 2.Firmly apply the parking brake. 3.Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position, but do not start the engine.
4.Press and hold the brake pedal. 5.Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL. 6.Shift the transfer case lever to the desired position. NOTE: When shifting out of transfer case NEUTRAL (N), turning the engine OFF may be required to avoid gear clash.
7.Shift the automatic transmission into PARK, or place manual transmission in Neutral. 8.Release the brake pedal. 9.Disconnect vehicle from the tow vehicle. 10.Start the engine. 11.Press and hold the brake pedal.
12.Release the parking brake. 13.Shift the transmission into gear, release the brake pedal (and clutch pedal on manual transmissions), and check that the vehicle operates normally.
It is necessary to follow these steps to be certain that the transfer case is fully in NEUTRAL (N) before recreational towing to prevent damage to internal parts. Damage to the transmission may occur if the transmission is shifted into PARK with the transfer case in NEUTRAL (N) and the engine running. With the transfer case in NEUTRAL (N) ensure that the engine is OFF prior to shifting the transmission into PARK. Front or rear wheel lifts should not be used. Internal damage to the transmission or transfer case will occur if a front or rear wheel lift is used when recreational towing. Tow only in the forward direction. Towing this vehicle backwards can cause severe damage to the transfer case.
Automatic transmissions must be placed in the PARK position for recreational towing.Manual transmissions must be placed in gear (not in Neutral) for recreational towing. Before recreational towing, perform the procedure outlined under?Shifting Into NEUTRAL (N)? To be certain that the transfer case is fully in NEUTRAL (N). Otherwise, internal damage will result.Towing this vehicle in violation of the above requirements can cause severe transmission and/or transfer case damage. Damage from improper towing is not covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.Do not use a bumper-mounted clamp-on tow bar on your vehicle. The bumper face bar will be damaged. You or others could be injured if you leave the vehicle unattended with the transfer case in the NEUTRAL (N) position without first fully engaging the parking brake.
The transfer case NEUTRAL (N) position disengages both the front and rear driveshafts from the powertrain and will allow the vehicle to move, even if the transmission is in PARK. The parking brake should always be applied when the driver is not in the vehicle.' We appreciate the time you took to write to us and we hope this was of assistance to you. Thanks again for your email. Sincerely, Sam Customer Service Representative Jeep Customer Assistance Center. Sheltie- since they are a big company they are always going to spout the legal mumbo jumbo to cover their butts, but they gave you great info. Now I will say that I am surprised that you don't have a steering wheel lock, I thought that every vehical had one.
(that's what I get for thinking huh?) When I towed mine I did have to have the key in and one click on but not the ignition on, then the t-case in N and my 5 speed in 1st. My wheels would follow my truck as in, if I turned right the jeeps wheels turned right, not a hard right but a gentle right, same for left turns. If my memory is any good. If you can't lock the steering wheel then you will have to tie the steering wheel off somehow into the middle or nuetral position ie wheels pointed straight forward. If you don't do this you will quickly find out why, because your tires will not track they will want to turn right or left on you.
This is what we used to have to do to tow our old 43 willys. This isn't necessary. As stated above the jeep will follow and track behind the vehicle towing it. Do not try to back up with a vehicle in flat tow. The steering will go full lock in one direction or the other due to caster and toe in being reversed. You cannot back up with the jeep connected to the tow vehicle!
The steering doesn't need to be tied! This will cause the wheels to be off center and could cause extreme tire wear in a short distance.
Don't ask how I know, I've seen it in action. You can eat the edge off of a front tire in 50 miles at interstate speeds. Leave the steering unlocked and the jeep will track straight with 0 issues and turn with the tow vehicle. Pull up, hook up, place jeep in neutral with engine running.
Shift transfer case to neutral, place trans in drive to check that transfer case is dis-engaged. Turn ignition off, place transmission in park, remove key if you have no steering lock, your good to go. Always shut the engine off before shifting back into park, the trans is freewheeling and shifting into park can snap or damage the parking pin. Once the engine is off the trans is no longer spinning and you can shift it to park with no issues. Don't leave the automatic trans in neutral as the transfer case might spin it via inertia and cause damage to it since fluid isn't circulating in it with the engine off. I'm on my third jeep as a toad. Simplest vehicle to tow 'bar none'.
In reading the article about flat towing my jeep behind motorhome it was very informative.i have one question, my jeep is a 5 spd the article said to put it in gear? Or does it matter? Thanks If you have a Manual Tranny, do not put the tranny in gear! Without the engine running, you're not pushing lubricant through the tranny and you can damage it.
I've done tons of reseach and made many mistakes before getting it figured out. 1 - Pull Jeep up to the coach 2 - Connect your towing system, lights, etc 3 - Put the tranny in neutral 4 - Put the transfer case in neutral 5 - If you have a wheel lock, turn the key ONE click to unlock the wheel 6 - Get the hell out of town and get dirty Cheers. If you have a Manual Tranny, do not put the tranny in gear! Without the engine running, you're not pushing lubricant through the tranny and you can damage it.
I've done tons of reseach and made many mistakes before getting it figured out. 1 - Pull Jeep up to the coach 2 - Connect your towing system, lights, etc 3 - Put the tranny in neutral 4 - Put the transfer case in neutral 5 - If you have a wheel lock, turn the key ONE click to unlock the wheel 6 - Get the hell out of town and get dirty Cheers OK fully confused now.Most everyone says T-Case in Neutral and transmission engaged (park for auto's, in gear for manuals).however you mentioned place in neutral for both T-Case and Tranny? Can you explain why for the Tranny in neutral please.Thx.
OK fully confused now.Most everyone says T-Case in Neutral and transmission engaged (park for auto's, in gear for manuals).however you mentioned place in neutral for both T-Case and Tranny? Can you explain why for the Tranny in neutral please.Thx NEVER!!!!!! Leave the transmission in neutral with an automatic!!! Only the transfer case. Inertia could spin the output shaft of the transmission. With an automatic if inertia spins the shaft you will have internal transmission damage.
When the engine is running it turns a pump within the automatic which both lubes and cools all parts as well as providing the hydraulic pressures neccessary within the automatic to make it function. With the engine off, if the internals spin via inertia things can and will burn up. With a manual it really makes no difference. With the transmission in gear the transfer case is disengaged due to being in neutral. With the manual out of gear it may freewheel via inertia, but a manual doesn't depend on any type of pump for lubrication, similar to the differentials.
If I towed a manual, yes I would put the transmission in gear, but I would use first gear. In the low gear there is no chance of inertia spinning it like there would be in fifth or sixth, which probably couldn't spin the engine but I wouldn't take the chance of the higher gear. I have no idea why the poster in question would state to use neutral. It's his Jeep and his dollar though. I've towed Jeep's for over 50K miles and never had the trans in neutral while doing so and have yet to experience a problem. With a manual it really makes no difference. With the transmission in gear the transfer case is disengaged due to being in neutral.
With the manual out of gear it may freewheel via inertia, but a manual doesn't depend on any type of pump for lubrication, similar to the differentials. If I towed a manual, yes I would put the transmission in gear, but I would use first gear. In the low gear there is no chance of inertia spinning it like there would be in fifth or sixth, which probably couldn't spin the engine but I wouldn't take the chance of the higher gear. I have no idea why the poster in question would state to use neutral. It's his Jeep and his dollar though. I've towed Jeep's for over 50K miles and never had the trans in neutral while doing so and have yet to experience a problem.
That is what I was thinking as well, however I have yet to tow my YJ, just getting it ready to be towed and wanted to make sure I was doing things correctly. The post from Buffalo confused me because I have read alot of posts that said to place the T-Case in N, and the manual trans IN gear.That being said I was wondering why Buffalo was saying to put both the t-case and manual transmission in N? Being in the state of Texas, any unit being towed that has a GVWR of 3500# or more must have some type of supplemental braking. Also true in CA and many other states (weights may vary). If pulled over by the cops, or involved in an accident, you will be in trouble without a supplemental braking system - its the law! If the supplemental braking system causes the Jeep brake lights to light - such as happens when using a Patriot supplemental brake, then the Jeep brake lighting system must be deactivated so no interference will occur with signaling from the towing vehicle. On my 2012 Unlimited, I must remove fuse M1 to deactivate the brake lights.
I tow with transfer case in neutral, manual trans in second, M1 fuse out, key in my pocket, and park brake OFF. One time I hooked up on an incline so pulled on the park brake while testing that transfer case and trans were in proper position.
Forgot to release park brake before towing. Don't do this!!
Ok this may be a stupid question. What is happening to the clutch and engine if you are leaving the manual transmission in gear while you are towing? Seems that there will be considerable drag and wear and tear. From the owners manual and the first post above. NOTE: The transfer case must be shifted into NEUTRAL (N), automatic transmission must be shifted into PARK, and manual transmission must be placed in gear (NOT in NEUTRAL) for recreational towing. Parasitic rotation in the transfer case from the drive shaft can cause problems according to your vehicle manufacturer.
Putting the transmission in gear/park solves the issue. Depending on supplemental brake system design, you may or may not need to pull a fuse to isolate the towed vehicle brake lamp circuit.
I chose US Gear's Unified Tow Brake to tow our '13 JKU. Here is my review and why I chose it that includes installed pictures. Some may find this overview of towing helpful. I have a 2015 Jeep Wrangler with auto trans and tow it behind a motor home. I follow the manual with transfer case in neutral and tranny in park. When I disengage from motor home and try to put the transfer case from neutral to 2WD it is no go.
Dinghy Towing Guide 1997
Again, I am following the manual. A year ago after finding out from Jeep Corporate during a pitch black night at a campground, I have to push the jeep several feet (sometimes in several attempts) before I can successfully get the transfer case into 2WD. What I want to state here is that I was told differently from a knowledgeable senior service tech at the dealer where I purchased my Jeep. He said I can tow with the park in neutral and the transfer case in neutral.
He said this will eliminate the need to push the Jeep to allow the transfer case from being locked in neutral. Is there anything official from Jeep on this procedural change? If my memory is any good. If you can't lock the steering wheel then you will have to tie the steering wheel off somehow into the middle or nuetral position ie wheels pointed straight forward. If you don't do this you will quickly find out why, because your tires will not track they will want to turn right or left on you. This is what we used to have to do to tow our old 43 willys. This depends on the vehicle.
When flat towing, the vehicles steering needs to be able to work - as you turn, the towed unit has to turn to follow the towing unit of there will be insane scrubbing of the front tires. A properly aligned - IE not bent loose or damaged - front suspension will have the steering 'naturally' return to center of its own accord as the unit is towed. Ive flat towed several old C-Body Chryslers, a couple of Ram pickups, and my JKUR - every single one of them I found that having the wheel unlocked and unsecured results in the best towing characteristics. I tried towing a C body with the wheel locked and promptly nearly went off the road, bungee cord made this less of a problem and leaving it totally free resulted in perfect towing.
I do agree with the remote brakes; though my towing vehicles are usually so heavy they can handle the added load of the towed unit. Regarding the tcase vs transmission - how this actually works is this. On the JK/JKU, the oil pump which feeds oil within the transfer case (either Tcase) is driven off the rear output shaft. This is a deliberate engineering ploy - this means that the Tcase lubrication system is live whenever the wheels are turning; the TCase is being lubricated throughout. However, the transmissions - both auto and manual - have their oil pumps driven off their input shafts. As such, if they are rotating when the engine isn't, they do not get oil lubrication and would burn out. (This is why owners manuals state very firm limits on towing a disabled unit with all wheels on the ground.) As such, locking up the transmission to the engine so it does not turn becomes paramount; letting the Tcase do the job it was designed for.
This hasn't changed for at least 15 years now. Now, there are some non-JK/JKU units that do not do this buuut that isn't the topic here. With automatic-equipped units, what I have found is one needs to have the vehicle moving (slowly) and engine running - drop transmission into gear then back into neutral, then FIRMLY shift the Tcase out of neutral into gear. Don't dawdle or be soft like you would be with the auto shifter - this is a mechanical beast meant to take some force.
Manuals are nicer this way, one can feather the clutch of the trans in gear to get the slight rotation needed to line up the splines within the Tcase. You may have an easier time shifting from Neutral to 4 lo, then from 4lo to 2hi.
IRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice?
No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE! You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more! Dec 13th and we are ready to take off for seattle from mid coast california. I now know why Lesus(toyota) does not condone towing thier product.
It s the brakes. And not the drive line. The brakes are of the Hydraulic over hydraulic type. Another words instead of using vacuum to bost the brake pedal pressure Toyota uses a electric motor to drive a small hydraulic pump which boosts the brake pedal.
Prblem is if I leave the ignition key in the accessory postion, then among other things the hydraulic pump runs and boosts the pedal pressure. I use a Brake Buddy system to automatically apply the brakes when the coach brakes are applied. Trouble is, the Brake Buddy tends to apply too much pressure and cause my tow car to skid the tires. I have the BB ressure down to 20lbs and it seems to be ok. However the battery is dead when I arrive at stop for the night.
I am now considering providing a fused charging line to the tow car's battery with a diode in line to prevent areverse of battery power into the coach. That should work. Anybody have any negative thought s about this? Wayne: I would like to correct you on the assumption that the transfer case is in neutral when in two wheel drive.
Not so.If the transfer case is in neutral you are not going anywhere. Besides you cannot run a Lexus in 2wd.
And as it turns out I now have a lot of experience towing the Lexus behind my Alpine. I have towed it about 5,000 miles now. No problems but the battery going dead while in transit because the key has to be left in the 'unlock' position to tow.
This causes several systems to remain activated thus the battery problem. I have recently installed a 'charging line' from the coach to the Lexus battery and now, no problems at all.
And the best part is on arrival. I have a great 'ride' to use. So.if anybody wants to tow a 4wd Toyota product I can tell them how to do it safely. Hi Niva: You may have a simpler time of it. If the brake system in your Toyota does NOT include an electric hydraulic boost pump for your brakes, you wont have most of the problems I had.
You can tell if you do by lifting the hood and finding the brake master cylinder. If the master cylinder has a rather large disc shaped attachment (a vacuum booster)located beween the master cylinder and the firewall you are lucky. Mine does not. My 02 LX470 has an electric/hydraulic boost pump located down below the master cylinder.
Its a great and powerful system but causes some problems for our purposes. First it will run the battery down because the electric pump is armed and runs occasionaly to keep the hydraulic pressure up, This and a few smaller electrical items, that cannot be turned off are what causes the battery to go dead. So if you have The vacuum type, here is all you do to tow. Unlock the steering 2. Transfer case in neutral 3.
Auto transmission in neutral 4. Use an auxillary braking system like the Brake Buddy and set it for the weight of your Toyota turn off all electrical systems in the Toyota. OR since you cannot turn them all off (like the heater motor continues to run slowly) disconnect the positive terminal on the battery 5. Attach lights to the rear of the Toyota. I use the magnetic type offered by The big RV Parts stores.
And you should have no problems. If you DO have the brake system like mine, email me back and we will go down that path. According to Remco, who claims to have done lots of the GX 470s, putting the transfer case in neutral takes care of the front wheel drive issue. The rear axle now needs a disconnect to keep from running dry. (The rear axle gets its lubrication by the splash method and it dose not splash well when being towed in neutral, hence the need for the disconnect.) They said that you can get away without the disconnect on short, short trips, but not long ones because of the heat & friction.
The Lexus tech said that he cannot approve aftermarket equipment of any kind. After much encouragement from Stretch, I am towing my 2006 LX470. I use the US Gear brake and leave the ignition off with the key in it so the steering doesn't lock.
Also added a charge line just to make sure the battery stays charged. This breaking system has enough pull to provide enough stoping power using the toad's brakes. Every time I stop I run through the gears to help lube moving parts. Seems to be doing fine, but, of course, who knows what longer-term ramifications might be in store for my tranny? Quote:Originally posted by Nivla: Stretch, Thank you for that info. My 4runner does NOT have the electric-hydraulic boost pump.
So I just have to wire lights and figure out if I want to disconnect the battery or add a charge line. Thanks again! Nivla Nivla, you should not tow the 4runner by merely putting the tranny in N and Transfer case in N. On Tacomas and 4Runners, the transfer case locks the front and rear driveshafts in N. Therefore, if you only put the transfer case in N, it will be like driving on the pavement with 4wd. Instead, you must: 1.
Set up your tow bar/dolly on the truck. Turn engine off and key out. Pull your 4wd ecm fuse, it is on your left hand side, about a 10-15amp fuse, labeled 4wd. Put tranny into N and Transfer case into N. Insert key and tow away. This will allow you to tow without having the front and rear tires bind. Your front and rear driveshaft will still be locked together (front will still spin), but the front driveshaft won't engage the front tires because the hubs will not lock.
The pulled 4wd fuse prevents the hubs from locking.
Motor homes and recreational vehicles (RVs) are a part of the American experience. They're a great way to vacation with family and friends, and they reflect our love of the open road. Traveling by RV often means staying in campsites or motor-home parks, usually located in remote rural areas. To ensure that RV drivers have more convenient and economical transportation once they've reached their destination, many travelers tow a smaller vehicle, called a 'dinghy', behind their RV. The car serves as a shuttle for local trips to the market, restaurants and other businesses located in the nearest town-or, in the case of four-wheel and all-wheel drive vehicles, as a means to explore the local backcountry to enjoy fishing, hiking, and other off-pavement activities.
A sales consultant can determine how to 'dinghy' tow any vehicle in the Toyota lineup-from a Yaris to a Land Cruiser-just by knowing the dinghy's drivetrain. This Hot Sheet focuses on important factors and precautions to convey to your customers when towing a dinghy vehicle. It also covers simple, easy-to-remember rules about towing safely. It All Depends on the Drivetrain Looking at the various Toyota vehicle models and towing requirements, it can all seem complicated. Omc cobra shift shaft adjustment. In reality, it's quite simple.
There are only three ways to properly tow a dinghy, and those three ways are based on the dinghy's drivetrain: If it's a front-wheel drive vehicle with a manual transmission: These vehicles can be dinghy towed with all four wheels on the road with the transmission shift lever in the Neutral position. If it's a front-wheel drive vehicle with a hybrid transaxle or automatic transmission: These vehicles can be dolly towed, which means the drive (front) wheels must ride on a dolly (a small, light two-wheel trailer). With these transmissions, the drive wheels are always coupled to the drivetrain even when the transmission is in Neutral, so dinghy towing with all four wheels in contact with the road may result in damage to the transmission. If it's a rear-wheel drive, four-wheel drive, all-wheel drive, or hybrid with all-wheel drive: These Toyotas can only be towed with a flatbed trailer.
The rear wheels cannot be uncoupled from the gearing and hardware that implements rear- or all-wheel drive. The only way to tow these vehicles is on a flatbed with all four wheels off the ground. Dolly & Dinghy Towing: What to Know. Dinghy towing does not completely eliminate the possibility of damage to the vehicle.
Always tow the dinghy vehicle with the front wheels facing forward, not backward. With manual transmissions, the shift lever must be in Neutral before dinghy towing.
If the vehicle is towed while in gear, damage to the tires, engines, transmission and differential may occur. When dinghy towing, the ignition switch must be turned to the 'ACC' position in order to unlock the steering wheel. With all four wheels on the ground, the front wheels must be free to turn when the motor home and the dinghy are cornering. Accessories, such as the radio and air-conditioning, should be turned off. The parking brake must be released. Leaving the parking brake on, even partially, can result in brake damage and possibly fire, as the brakes could overheat.
After being dinghy towed, the vehicle must be allowed to idle for at least three minutes after start-up before driving. This ensures that all transmission and drive system components are thoroughly lubricated. Before towing any vehicle, always refer to your Owner's Manual and any instructions provided by the tow-bar, dolly or trailer manufacturer. Follow all written instructions.
Editor's Note: This question was originally asked in 2009. What are my choices for 4 wheel towed vehicles? ANSWER: Greetings thanks for submitting your question on our As you probably know by now not all vehicles can be towed by an RV with all four wheels down on the ground. In RV Lingo vehicles that can be towed 4 wheels down are known as 'Toads, Toweds or Dinghies' These are vehicles that have been officially recognized by the manufacturer as being 'Dinghy Towable'.
Even though these vehicles are certified as 'Dinghy Towable (4 wheels down)' they may still have some limitations as far as maximum speed they can be towed at or number of miles per trip, before you have to start the Dinghy and shift through some gears to prevent damage to their transmissions. Each year compiles a list of Dinghys for that model year. Since you are looking for a 4 Wheel Drive Dinghy that can be towed with a it does limit the number of vehicles you have to choose from. What you need to understand is that if you choose to use a the number of vehicles you can tow behind an RV increases. If you use a full then you can tow anything and you will only be limited by the size of the car trailer. Below is a list of 2009 4 wheel drive vehicles that have been certified by their manufacturers as being Dinghy Towable. In fact 2009 is a banner year for vehicles that can be towed 4 wheels down.
2009 Buick Enclave 4WD CX/CXL Chevrolet and GMC: Avalanche 1500. 4WD, Colorado/Canyon 4WD, Equinox Sport AWD, Sierra 1500 4WD, Silverado 1500 and 2500 4WD, Suburban/Yukon XL 1500 and 2500 4WD, Tahoe/Yukon 4WD and Trailblazer/Envoy 4WD. Dodge: Dakota 4WD, Durango 4WD and Ram 1500, 2500 and 3500 4WD. Ford and Mecury: Edge (FWD/AWD), Explorer 4WD V-6 and V-8, F-150 4WD, Super Duty 4WD and Flex (FWD/AWD), Sport Trac 4WD V-6/V-8 and Taurus X (FWD/AWD). Honda: CR-V FWD/AWD.
Hummer: H2, H2 SUT, H3, H3 Alpha, H3T and H3T Alpha. Jeep: Commander Sport U 4WD, Grand Cherokee Laredo X 4WD, Liberty Limited/Sport 4WD and Wrangler 4WD. Nissan: Frontier 4WD V6 and Xterra 4WD. Saturn: Outlook FWD/AWD and Vue FWD/AWD. Although these vehicles are certified my their manufacturers to be towed 4 wheels down, you need to visit the manufacturer's website to find out if there are speed or mileage limitations or special optional equipment packages that need to be on the vehicle to make it towable.
You also need to be aware that due to the recent shakeup in the Automobile Industry, some of the makes and models mentioned above may not be easy to find. If you are looking for Dinghy lists for previous years you should visit the and you will find links to Dinghy Towing lists going back to 2002. I hope that this information has been helpful to you. Do you have any suggestions or comments on this topic?
You can add them to this page by clicking on the 'Click Here To Post Comments' link located near the bottom of this page. Happy RVing RVing Al Comments for What 4 Wheel Drive Vehicles Can Be Towed By An RV? Average Rating.
Comments are closed.
|
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |